16 things that can make a difference to your end tackle

1 Hook sharpness

It’s all too easy to cast out a blunt hook, even though it’s even easier to check its sharpness. Simply touch the hook point and if not ‘sticky’ sharp change it or economically sharpen it with a hook-sharpening tool. This will significantly reduce the chances of your hook being ejected by carp without gaining a solid hook hold.

2 Hookbait choice

There are two important points to try and cover here, the first being that the fish can actually find the hookbait quickly and easily. So a bright bait when baiting heavily or a pop-up when weed or chod is present. Secondly it matches or resembles the size of the feed items you’re encouraging the carp to eat, otherwise they’ll just ignore it.

3 Hookbait balance

The added weight of the rig to the hookbait, means it will not always react in the same as free offerings when investigated by feeding or wily carp. Fine-tuning the buoyancy of the hookbait can then make a massive difference, either by trimming pop-ups so they sink slowly or adding a little cork insert to heavy bottom baits.

4 Hooklink memory

The often stiff memory of monofilament is great for flat and hard fishing spots such as clean gravel, but can sit awkwardly when cast to soft silt areas or spots that contain lakebed debris. In these cases a softer material with less memory like a coated braid will settle on the contours of the bottom and ‘match’ the fishing situation much better.

5 Hooklink length

Think you’re getting done? Then try making a change to your hooklink length. Maybe go shorter to provide more, quick resistance from the lead to help set the hook. Or perhaps go longer to give carp shaking their heads violently on the take, trying to use the weight of the lead to help throw the hook, less room to manoeuvre.

6 Hooklink putty

One or two small blobs of tungsten putty placed along the hooklink will help pin it down to the lakebed making it less obvious and less likely to spook feeding fish. It also makes a great counter-balance weight for pop-up presentations, as you can reduce or add the putty in the tiniest of amounts to fine-tune the rig precisely.

7 Swivel choice

Often overlooked, it’s important to choose the appropriate design and size of swivel to fish safely. Firstly, the swivel must fit other terminal components correctly for them to function properly. So the swivel locks into position within a lead clip for example and the eye is large enough to easily slide off rotary set-ups like helicopter or Chod Rigs.

8 Anti-tangle sleeves

Attaching the hooklink to a bare swivel, such as a ring swivel can be useful in providing the rig some movement, but can be susceptible to tangling. If this level of movement is not desired or the rig is not held in position, say within a PVA bag, use an anti-tangle sleeve over the swivel for a straight, well presented rig.

9 Lead attachment

Hooked carp, short of the casting lead will swim higher in the water, making them much easier to land in weedy conditions, but on snag free waters without any weed you’re just wasting money by dropping the lead. So use a lead release system when losing the lead is a must and take notice of the pressure level needed to drop the lead.

10 Lead size

A few things to consider here: how far you need to cast being the first and as a ‘rule of thumb’ a lot of pro’s will use the lightest lead they need to reduce water disturbance. That said, slightly heavier leads can help set the hook on the take, so you may need to sacrifice one benefit for another and vice-versa.

11 Lead shape

Aerodynamic tournament style leads are great for distance casting, although not so great at holding bottom on the side of steep gravel bars or marginal slopes, when a wide, flat-pear lead would be a far better choice. Dumpy, square-shaped leads can also add to the speed in which resistance is felt from the hook.

12 The last three feet

It is this area where you need to combine tackle items of an appropriate strength and suitability for the fishing situation. Using abrasion resistant materials when fishing near snags or coarse gravel features and pinning everything down with small sinkers or putty when there is little debris to hide your presentation, will land you more fish.

13 Knots

Within the set-up of your terminal tackle you may have several knots in use and from the attachment of a pop-up tied on with floss to the joining of the main line, these knots need to be tied with care. Never rush a knot, always moisten it and pay attention to its strength before casting out and retie at the first doubt of not being 100%

14 Camouflage

Putting the debate of what carp may or may not see or distinguish as terminal tackle to one side, the fact still remains - can you take the chance? The answer has to be... No! Simply using end tackle of a colour to match the fishing situation and things like fluorocarbon in clear water can only stack the odds of catching in your favour.

15 Use a re-setting rig

Where possible, use a rig which can reset itself. It’s now a proven fact that carp ‘get away’ with our rigs over and over again, so by using a set-up which if/when ejected can reset back to its original position. Prime examples of this would be Chod Rigs and Hinged Stiff Links.

16 An added extra

Okay, with a well thought out and functional selection of end gear put together, there is just one more thing we would suggest – attaching a little bag of tasty morsels. Not only will a small PVA bag nicked on the hook add attraction, but it also increases the weight at the hook end of the rig for a tangle free flight when casting – Perfect!