How to tie the Naked 'Breakaway' Chod Rig

First off, you don’t want to fish this with the Chod Rig running on the main line – it needs to be semi-fixed. On paper, it’s the simplest and most straightforward rig to construct. No leadcore, no tubing, no leader knots and therefore nothing for weed to clog and snag around. The lead can be ditched the moment you get a take and that means one very important thing for happens.

The hooked fish, short of the lead will swim much higher in the water, up above much of the weed. It’s then much easier to negotiate the fish to the net. Not only will you land more fish, but this set-up also means your hookbait will be presented perfectly. Tantalizingly saton the weed and difficult for any carp to resist!

Let’s start with the basics. You want the Chod Rig fixed up the line and not running, as this will ensure it doesn’t snag on the weed. The way you cast and sink the line is also very important too (see illustration below), as is the way you balance your pop-up. It must be a reliably buoyant pop-up and you want it critically- balanced so it sinks very, very slowly.

The final part of the jigsaw is how you set your indicator: it must be on the deck so the line can be fished totally slack. If you fish a tight line it will make the Chod Rig sit at a funny angle. Get these elements right and you’ll have a simply awesome pop-up presentation where the carp feel most safe – in and around the weed. Right, here’s now to construct it...

Main line: When fishing into weed you need a hardcore main line – something that’s able to withstand the pressure weedy conditions and its sometimes- abrasive contents – such as zebra mussels. So 15 or 18lb breaking strain mono’s are a must. It’s also very important not to put any lumps of putty up the line to help sink it.

Two semi-fixed stops: To hold the Chod Rig in place, you’ll need to use small tungsten sinkers. To ease with passing them up the main line, simply wet the line first. To sit on top of the sinkers, use 4mm rubber beads that can easily slide away should the line part.

The distance: To ensure the rig is ‘fishing’ in any depth of weed, position these stops right up the line – anything up to eight or nine foot.

Strong ring: For this rig to work effectively you need to lose the lead on the take. Take a pair of wire cutters and remove the ring from a flexi-swivel and tie this to the end of your main line using your favoured knot. If you’re worried about the swivel butting up to this ring during the fight, you can first thread on a large 8mm rubber bead and then tie on the ring.

Rotten bottom: This is the weak link that connects the lead to the main line. 3lb mono is the recommended breaking strain. You want to make this link about six-inches as it’ll snap quite easily on the take then. If you’re casting longish distances, simply PVA tape this link to the ring.

Light(ish) lead: Use the lightest lead you can get away with. The less dense the lead the less it will penetrate into the weed.